Nakamura Landscape  | 中村風景画

Itsuki Nakamura

I met the mayor of Amakusa in his office to hear his stories of growing up in Ushibuka. He spoke proudly of the town, touching on its specialties like its bridge designed by architect Renzo Piano, but not shying away from its decline as well. The change in Ushibuka he chose to write about was something I never would have predicted: its smell. He spoke of the aroma of fish that would fill your nostrils when you came through the tunnel into town. Rather than be unpleasant, he said it smelled good because it meant the fishing industry was doing well and people were working. These days, the smell isn't strong enough to reach up the mountain road.  "When you come out of the tunnel, the sea of Ushibuka stretches out before you. In that nostalgic morning smell, I'm reminded of the past."